Among the many things Ferhat Yalcin has pined for since leaving Istanbul a decade ago is a fish sandwich called balik ekmek, the specialty of the weather-beaten mongers who set up shop in and around the Galata and Atatürk bridges. Grilled mackerel is the star, slipped into a crusty roll and dressed with fresh greens and onions. It's one of the world's great and enduring street foods.

A former general manager at Tom Power's restaurant Corduroy, Yalcin grew weary of longing for the taste of his youth and, late last year, decided to do something about it. The happy result is Fishnet, an 11-table, order-at-the-counter operation that subscribes to a code of freshness and quality....Read more

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